Wine Rasa

Yesterday was Karly’s birthday. My little girl turned eight. Friday night she had a party with fifteen little girls running around in our house. Ten of those girls slept over. Those of you who have daughters know what a force of nature these little girls can be. I don’t know what my wife was thinking.

Sunday was a much quieter affair with family. Karly asked me to make cherry cola ribs. It’s one of her favorites and everyone loves them. OK, so it’s not my ribs recipe. I got the recipe from Bon Apetit a few years ago and have been making it ever since (Grilled Spareribs with Cherry Cola Glaze – I like using baby back ribs instead and I adjust the heat otherwise it can be too sweet).

We started the afternoon off with the 2008 Lydie et Thierry Chancelle Saumur Blanc. This is a 100% Chenin Blanc from Saumur – an AOC in the Loire Valley. The wine has crisp acidity and notes of melon, nice structure with a mid-length finish. It’s an enjoyable and refreshing white. $20.

With the ribs, we had the 2008 Domaine Des Billards Saint-Amour Beaujolais. I’ve made the cherry cola ribs easily about 20 times. Of all wines I’ve had with the ribs, this wine has provided for the best pairing. The wine is very fruit forward (as most Beaujolais wines are) but it also has wonderful notes of black pepper and cardamom. It has nice balance and a peppery mid-length finish. I really liked this wine and at $20 it’s a bargain. And more importantly, it went perfectly with the ribs.

We ended with our own Rasa Vineyards 2008 Vox Populi Mourvedre. Of course it was wonderful. ’Nuff said.

About a year ago, I had a highly rated Rioja and I remember thinking “what is Rioja about this wine?” The wine could have been from anywhere – lots of fruit and new oak, low acidity and high pH. Sound familiar? Any kind of “Riojaness” was striped in favor of the style of wine the winery wanted to produce. Fair enough, a winery has a right to make any style of wine it chooses but it wasn’t for me (actually I didn’t even think it was all that good – too much ethyl acetate).

I don’t drink a lot of Rioja but when I do, I tend to like the traditional style and you can’t get more traditional than Lopez de Heredia. 2001 is considered an excellent vintage for Rioja. The 2001 Vina Bosconia Reserva is 80% Tempranillo, 15% Grenache, 3% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo from estate vineyards.

On the nose, it had a weird soy sauce note and I thought it was a bit oxidized. Though the wine is only 9 years old, it doesn’t have a lot of fruit. Aged for 5 years in barrel, it’s easy to pick out notes of cedar. After a while, a hint of white pepper (from the Grenache I presume) is detectable. On the palate, the wine has vibrant acidity and the finish is wonderfully long. Whatever quibbles you might have with the aromas and taste or with the minor faults in the wine disappear as the long finish entices you to keep coming back for more.

This wine is not a crowd pleaser but if you want a taste of Rioja, I recommend it. $35.

Trio Infernal are the talented winemakers Laurent Combier, Jen Michel Gerin, and Peter Fischer making wine in Priorat.

This wine is Carignan. I really wanted to like this wine but the acids were just too high giving the wine sour notes that I couldn’t get past. It’s too bad because this could have been a very good wine.

For what it’s worth, their Cuvee 2/3, a 100% old-vines Carignan, is supposed to be fantastic.

This past week I had a trio of Italian reds that I really enjoyed.

Barolo’s are best when they have some age to them. I try not to drink a Barolo that’s younger than 15 years. But recently, I was recommended the 2003 Veglio Michelino e Figlio. For $28, this just might represent the best Barolo value wine I’ve ever had. Aged in large oak casks for at least two years, this Nebbiolo-based wine is a beauty.

The 2006 Corzano e Paterno Chianti Riserva I Tre Borri is 100% Sangiovese matured in barriques for 1 year. It has nice fruit and gamey notes, nice structure, and nice finish. With 5.8 g/L total acidity and a pH of 3.5, this wine is made to be partnered with food. We had it with our Mother’s Day dinner made by my 10-year old boy Austin – homemade marinara sauce with crab meat over a bed of pasta. Delicious.

The 2006 Riecine Chianti Classico Riserva is 100% Sangiovese aged in barrel for more than 2 years. It has nice fruit, beautiful structure, well integrated tannins, and a nice finish. This is a well-made, elegant wine that will age easily for 15 years. $54.

Every spring it’s the same story – the weather starts getting warmer, we start grilling and I get in the mood for a nice rosé. I drink one, I’m unimpressed, and don’t drink another one until next spring. The idea of a rosé, it seems to me, is better than the real thing.

But this year, things were different. Someone at my local wine shop suggested I try the 2009 Domaine Du Bagnol Rosé from Cassis ($27). I looked at the back label and saw that is was imported by Neal Rosenthal. Since I love his portfolio, I decided to try it.

The Domaine Du Bagnol rosé is a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Cinsault. On the nose, the Grenache really jumps out. This wine has a nice structure, good acids, and a mid-length finish. While it didn’t go with my hamburger, it did go well with some aged cheddar.

I liked the wine so much that I went back to buy more but they were sold out.  Imagine that.

Last week, I bought a case of wines from one of my favorite shops. Here are some quick notes on three of them:

2005 Olga Raffault “Les Picasses” Chinon

This Cabernet Franc comes from 50 year old vines. This wine is made in the traditional style – fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in neutral oak and chestnut barrels for two to three years.

If traditional is a euphemism for barnyard, earthy and rustic, then this wine is traditional. This is not a wine for everyone.

I liked the structure and finish on this wine. It was a bit too barnyard for me but my wife didn’t seem to mind. Overall, I thought the wine was well made. It needs a bit or aeration and the nice acidity makes this a good food wine. $25

2007 Filipa Pato Ensaios Tinto

Ok, I’ll say it – I have a bias against dry red Portuguese wines. The bias is totally unfounded and based on some cheap bottles I had years ago. So, I thought I’d try to undo my bias.

I came across this wine and was intrigued because it’s made from the Touriga Nacional grape. My experience with Touriga Nacional has only been with Vintage Port (the sublime Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Ports to be specific) so I thought I’d give this one a try.

Filipa Pato is a young winemaker getting some high praise for her wines. This one is clean with nice fruit and structure with a nice fruity mid-length finish. I quite liked this wine. For $18, it’s worth a try.

2005 Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol Rouge

What a wine! I’ve never heard of this winery (though it’s been around since 1963). Since the wine is from Bandol, it has be a minimum of 50% Mourvedre. This one is 85% Mourvedre and rest is Grenache and Cinsault.

Since we just released our 2008 Vox  Populi Mourvedre, I was interested in trying a nice Bandol.

I was so surprised by this wine. I didn’t expect it to be so good. Nice aromatics, great structure, nice finish. A little spice, some game, black fruit. Very inviting. I bought it for $36. This is a must buy.

A few years ago, I was at a Wine Spectator event where they were pairing Thai food with Dom Perignon.  The celebrated Australian chef David Thompson had just written a book called Thai Food.  I guess someone decided to have a cross-promo.

Four Dom’s were poured and Chef Thompson married a Thai dish with each one.  I can no longer remember what was served but I do remember loving everything (especially the ‘96 Dom Perignon Rose).  Up to that point, I never thought ot Thai cuisine as haute cuisine, but Chef Thompson’s food was sublime and the pairings were spot on.

Ever since then, when I think of Dom Perignon, I think of Thai food.  So when a friend recently gave me a bottle of the 2000 Dom Perignon, I had to make some Thai food to go with it – well, at least Thai-inspired.

I made 3 appetizers: Shrimp and Mango Chutney in Wonton Cups, Chicken Dumplings with Ginger-Soy-Hijiki Sauce, and Scallops with Papaya-Mango Salsa.  My friend brought over the entrée – Chicken Basil with Rice.

We started things off with Champagne RL Legras 2000 Saint-Vincent.  From the village of Chouilly, this blanc de blanc cuvee is a beauty.  Made in an austere style, this wine is well-balanced with nice acidity and finish.  The wine went well with the appetizers.

The 2000 Dom Perignon was next.  Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from 10 different vineyards, this wine was riper than the Saint-Vincent and had more body.  The Pinot was evident in this Champagne.  Not in the same league as the ’90 and ’96, this is still a great effort.  I thought it went exceptionally well with the Scallops.

For the Chicken Basil entrée, we opened the 1990 Chateau de la Genaiserie – my last bottle.  I’ve had this wine several times and this was its best showing – golden hue, nice mouthfeel, nicely balanced, with hints of honey, apricots, and jaggery.  This is a Chenin Blanc from Coteaux du Layon in the Loire Valley.  While it was a bit too sweet for the Chicken Basil, it was quite enjoyable.

December is just flying by.  Ever since I got back from the Holiday Barrel Tasting Weekend in Walla Walla, I feel like I’ve been going nonstop.  Looking back, I’m wondering what happened to all the good wine I usually drink.  Since coming back, I haven’t had a single bottle of wine that’s made me stop and take notice (even a bottle of 1991 Graham’s Vintage Port was lackluster - most likely due to improper storage).

This is not a good trend and one that needs to stop ASAP.

Last week, I was at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan.  As I was walking through the museum, I came across a painting that had me mesmerized.  The painting is The Death of Socrates by Jacques-Louis David.

Now, I’ve seen reproductions of this painting before so I was familiar with it.  But seeing the real thing was something else.  Wow.  I was awestruck by the beauty and the power of the message.  Socrates, animated with his one hand raised while his other hand reaches for the hemlock he’s been forced to drink, continues to lecture until his last breath.  While his acolytes mourn, he argues his point - undoubtedly something about the immortality of the soul.

I was transfixed by this painting.  I have not been able to get this painting out of my mind.  This is as it should be: fine art should cut through the detritus and grab you and move you in a profound way.  We can readily acknowledge that paintings, music, and poetry can do this.  For me, wine also has the power to do this.

I can remember a handful of wines that have moved me deeply (wines like 1947 Cheval Blanc, 1975 La Mission Haut Brion, 1990 Ponsot Clos de la Roche, 1978 Rayas, 1945 Pol Roger Champagne to name just a few).  These aren’t just good wines and are they are not just great wines.  These are profound wines.

It’s true that nowadays, with the advances in viticulture and enology, it’s easy to make a good bottle of wine.  But it’s still very hard to make a great bottle of wine.  Harder still is making wine that is truly transformative – a work of art if you will.

And like great works of art, these wines are a rare breed.  And like great works of art, these wines need to be cherished; these wines need to be celebrated.

I’m definitely at that age where I don’t think about celebrating my birthday.  It’s just another day closer to death as far as I’m concerned (alright, so that’s a bit melodramatic).  But, I have three little kids and birthdays for them are magical.  So, for them, I dispense with the macabre and enjoy the day.

Unfortunately this year, I didn’t get to celebrate with my kids.  I had to be in Washington for the harvest.  My kids were disappointed.  My little girl admonished me, telling me that I’m supposed to be home for my birthday and I should have scheduled my time better.

The days leading up to my birthday I was not feeling well while driving around to vineyards and working out the logistics for fruit deliveries.

My mood was decidedly glum when I woke up on my birthday.  I was in pain, I missed my family, and I was angry for allowing myself to be so out of shape.  But then a call from my wife and kids put me in a better mood.

By the evening, after finally getting our Cab from Dionysus and DuBrul vineyards, I was starting to feel a little better.  We were to have dinner at Kenny Hart’s house and that got me smiling.  Dinner at Kenny’s is always a fun time.  Billo and his girlfriend Kathy, our close friend Kevin, Kenny and his wife Karen, and I had a wonderful dinner together.  Kenny really outdid himself.  He is a fantastic cook.

Of course we had some nice wines too: Iron House Wedding Cuvee, 2006 Domaine Jomain Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles, 05 Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne, 1997 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir, 1995 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, 2007 Rasa Vineyards Principia Reserve Syrah, and 2005 Abeja Sagemoor Reserve Cab.

The Hill of Grace is at its peak and it’s a beauty.  The Principia is our 2007 Reserve Syrah.  It was bottled in Sept and this was the first time we tried it since bottling.  It was awesome.  The ’05 Abeja Sagemoor Reserve Cab is powerful and needs more time.  Abeja is certainly one of the best wineries in Washington.

Outside, in Kenny’s driveway as we said our goodbyes, I thought about his generosity and friendship.  I looked over at Billo and thought about what we are trying to create.  I looked around at the valley and thought about my family.  Happy Birthday, I murmured to myself.  Happy Birthday indeed.

Thanksgiving was fun.  As usual, Cindy did all the cooking and I was responsible for the wine.  We started things off with a couple of Rieslings – Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben 2007 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett and Karlsmuhle Peter Geiben 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett.

Both of these wines come from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and are quintessentially Mosel, marked with nice acidity, balance and grapefruit, mineral, and floral notes.  While both were good, the Karlsmuhle had more acidity giving it a slight lime character.  The Christoffel Erben had a little more sweetness and a longer finish making this one the crowd favorite.  At $27 for the Christoffel Erben and $22 for the Karlsmuhle, they are both worth a try.

Next up were four reds – Elio Grasso 2008 Dolcetto D’Alba Dei Grassi, Domaine Lamy Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Boudriotte Rouge, Rasa Vineyards 2007 QED and Rasa Vineyards 2007 Principia Reserve Syrah.

The Grasso Dolcetto D’Alba was a nice wine with good fruit and a little funk.  Easy to drink, it went well with the dinner.  Worth the $19.

A Pinot from Chassagne-Montrachet?  I was intrigued so I bought it.  The Domaine Lamy Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet is definitely not a crowd pleaser.  Very light in color and mouthfeel, this wine has cherries, game, herbal, and mineral notes.  It’s well balanced and surprises you with a long, powerful finish.  This is wine for a Burgundy lover.  I believe this was my first time drinking a Pinot from Chassagne-Montrachet.  It doesn’t come close to hitting the heights that Chardonnay from here can hit.  Still, it was very enjoyable.  $44.

The Rasa Vineyards 2007 QED and 2007 Principia were both awesome.  It felt great to drink my wines with my Thanksgiving meal.  The wines definitely overpowered the turkey but nobody cared.  Certainly not me.

Sometimes you have to forget about wine and food pairings and drink what you want.